Alfarnate’s charming and quiet white town is located northeast of Malaga. The town sits in the northern most section of the Axarquia region, an area that holds a vivid history and beautiful scenery. Alfarnate is approximately fifty kilometres from Malaga and forty-five kilometres from the coast.

 

To reach Alfarnate, you must plan to travel over winding, hilly terrain. The town is located in a flat tract of land between the Sierra Alhama and Sierra El Jobo mountain ranges. Alfarnate is on Andalusia’s popular Route of Mountains and Olive Oil, a trek that takes the driver through many towns that are important to the olive oil industry.

The exact foundation of Alfarnate as a town is undetermined. Evidence suggests that the Moors founded the town in the 10th century. The town name is believed to be derived from Al-Farnat, a Moorish term meaning “Flour Mill.” A scattered number of Moorish farmhouses and outbuildings leave behind the only evidence of times past dating back to the 1400s.

 

In the 1600s, the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, the Church of Santa Ana, and numerous other buildings were erected. The creation of a small inn played an important part in Alfarnate’s history. During the 1800s, bandits took over the inn. The location between Malaga and Granada made the town a perfect location for bandits to hide out and wait for the smoke to clear after their crimes.

 

Finally, there is a popular legend that Alfarnate was the hideout of many Nazis during the war. Until French troops arrived to free the town from the Nazi regime, the town remained under Nazi control. The truth behind this legend is debated for its accuracy, but many feel there is truth to the story.

A short distance from the town centre, the Cerro del Santo Cristo Sanctuary sits high upon the Cerro del Santo Cristo Mountain. The sanctuary still holds periodic outdoor masses. If you have the time, the sanctuary is worth visiting.

 

The sixteenth century Parochial Church of Santa Ana contains a stunning tower constructed in the Mudéjar style. The tower was not on the original structure, it was added later in the eighteenth century.

 

In the 1500s, Hermitage of Nuestra Senora of Monsalud is also an important site to see. The church contains three main areas that are separated by pillared archways.

 

Do not miss the City Council building. Built in the sixteenth century, the city council contains magnificent archways. The soportales are columns that raise the building above street level. These are important to the construction of many buildings in Alfarnate. Because Alfarnate is surrounded by the Alfarnate, Palancar and Morales streams, flooding can be a concern.

 

The Stone of Solidarity is closely linked to a town legend. Neighbours of Alfarnate, called Palancos, and the residents of Alfarnate spend years bickering over a boulder that sat on a road used for travel by donkey or horseback. The legend states that the townspeople both decided to move the rock by making it roll down hill. The towns quickly battled over the best way to move this large rock. Some felt it was best to push as the boulder with hoes. Others felt digging the earth around the bottom of the rock would work. In the end, the boulder did move and rolled down the hill and blocked part of the river where it remains.

 

Throughout the year, a number of important religious celebrations bring joy to this small town. If you happen to be passing through the town during any of these celebrations, take time to experience them.

 

The Romerias of San Marcos is held every April.

The Celebration of San Isidro is held in May.

In June, the Festival of San Antonio is held.

September offers the town’s largest celebration. The Supervisory Celebration honours the historical clash between the Moors and the Christians that shaped and changed the town’s future.

 

The Venta de Alfarnate is the inn where famous bandits hid out after their crimes. The inn is now a museum and restaurant.

 

While shopping in Alfarnate is limited, there is a push to reestablish the craft industry within the town. A number of craftspeople are hoping to establish a market for crafts and other handmade goods.

Alfarnate is a small community with around 1,600 residents. The town’s economy is solely based on agriculture. Crops include olives, almonds, garbanzo beans, and various grains. Those who do not work in agriculture must head to outlying towns for employment opportunities.

The cuisine of Alfarnate relies on the area’s produce. Typical starters include Ajobacalao (thick soup made from cod, garlic, olive oil, bread, and black pepper) and Avocado Salad (sliced avocados, ham, lemon juice, cheese, and oranges). For dinner, you can expect to eat meals like organ meat simmered in garlic and laurel and then served with a creamy almond sauce.

 

If you want to sample area desserts, try the Orange and Honey Mousse. The mousse is made from honey, fresh orange juice, orange peel, lemon juice, yogurt, and eggs. Alternately, try Stuffed Apricots. They are halved, pitted, and then stuffed with a mixture of ground almonds, strawberry jam, cinnamon, and butter.

Because Alfarnate is such a small town, there really is nothing to do at night. You can dine in the area restaurants, but do not expect a large selection. The best restaurant in the area is at Venta de Alfarnate, home of the museum dedicated to the area’s historical bandits. The restaurant serves regional fare.