The wealth of heritage and history is evident everywhere in the city of Utrera, situated 35 kilometres away from Sevilla and one of the most important towns in the province. A walk along the streets of the city reveals the magnificence of its churches, convents and ancestral homes. The Castle and the 13th century parish church of Santiago el Mayor are two of the most outstanding monuments.

 

Utrera is essentially an agricultural town set amidst fields of cereal cultivation and olive groves. Not only is it one of the main grain-producing regions in Spain, but it is also the centre of the cattle-rearing region, where fighting bulls (toros) are bred and raised.

The huge number of remains that have been found date back to the Iberian and the Neolithic periods, hinting at prehistoric human settlements in Utrera.

 

Called Castro Vinaria in Roman times, it was included amongst the most important cities of Andalucia at the time. The size of the necropolis is an indication of the importance of this city during Roman times, although no remains have been discovered of the Roman city.

 

In 1253, following the Christian Reconquest, King Ferdinand III constructed a fort and ramparts and distributed the region’s lands. The Muslims took back the city in 1340, which was then reconquered by the Christians during the reign of Alphonso XI. Destroyed by Mohamed V in 1369, Henry II increased the privileges of the city so as to promote repopulation. The city took a long time to recover from the War of Independence, which was fought during the 19th century.

Apart from churches and monuments, the highlight of any visit to Utrera is the famous Potaje Gitano, or the flamenco festival, that is held every year on the last Saturday in June. Like many other flamenco festivals in the region, this too is named after a popular Andalusian dish, Potaje Gitano or Gypsy’s Stew. The festival was originally introduced in 1957 by the gypsies of the town and is dedicated to singing.

 

The town is strewn with many old and interesting buildings and monuments. The Castle, with regular floor plan and several towers, dates back to the 13th century. The square-shaped keep is the best preserved.

The exterior of the 13th century Parish Church of Santiago El Mayor features the tapered transept dome and the magnificent Portada del Perdon door. The interior is designed with ribbed vaults and impressive pillars.

 

The 15th century Parish Church of Santa Maria de la Mesa has retained its original Gothic style despite being remodeled several times over. The majestic entrance to the church is one of the finest examples of the plateresque style found in Andalucia.

 

Some of the other historical monuments worth a visit include the Sanctuary of Nuestra Senora de Consolacion, with its lavish Mudejr style coffered ceiling; the Chapel of San Francisco, with its dome covered in fine wall paintings; the 17th century Chapel of Bartolome, which contains a statue of Our Father of Jesus of Nazareth, carved by Marcos de Cabrera; the 18th century Chapel of Nuestra Senora de Los Dolores, which contains impressive paintings and sculptures and the Convent of the Purisima Conception, with its coffered wood ceiling featuring intricate Mudejar carvings.

 

When in Utrera, keep at least one day to spend at the Utrera National Reserve. The Park contains three saltwater lakes of which the Laguna de Zarracatin is about ten times larger than the other two, Laguna Alcaparrosa and Laguna Arjona. The Park offers plenty of bird-watching opportunities, especially during the winter months when pochards, mallards, coots and shovelers can be seen. Other birds that can be seen at the Park include flamingoes, purple fallinules, little egrets, white-headed ducks, little grebes and purple herons. Migratory season brings flocks of avocets, black-headed gulls, whiskered terns, lesser black-beaked gulls and white-headed ducks.

Olive-growing and bull-rearing are the two major industries of this region. Utrera is the bull-rearing centre of Spain.

When you are done admiring the many sights and sampling the gastronomical delights of Utrera, it’s time to head on over to a village just 9 kilometres to the north of the city. Here you can see the intriguing mosaics of Italica, the Roman ruins and a well preserved Roman theatre inside the village of Santiponce.