Situated on the steep banks of western Alpujarra, Pórtugos is another town graced with tinaos, underground corridors that link houses. Appealing window boxes hang from both windows and balconies of the town’s housing rows creating eye-catching bursts of colour along the whitewashed houses.

The Latin word portus means “crossing.” The town name Pórtugos is derived from that word. The town has served as a crossing through the Alpujarra region to Trevélez. At the time of the Moors, the silk industry was reaching all time highs. With many travellers coming through the area, the townspeople could make a great living selling and trading their silks for other necessary items.

 

In the 15th century, the Christians began converging on areas to claim as their own domain. Moors were driven from their homes and forced to move to other countries. As the Moors fled, towns felt the impact of the skirmishes. Buildings were burned or destroyed. Towns that had previously thrived were left with no population. Pórtugos was one of those towns that saw its population dwindle to nothing. It would be years before settlers began moving into the area and starting from scratch. What was once a thriving market for silk turned into a town that had to find its way once more.

Located on the outskirts of Pórtugos, Fuente Agria is a natural spring that cascades down the iron-rich rocks creating a unique red tint to the water. The surrounding area is perfect for a quick hike or picturesque picnic.

 

Every October, a celebration honouring the Virgen del Rosario is held. Both religious ceremonies and night parties are held in the esteemed saint’s honour. The night parties include music and dancing. On the final day of the festivities the icon of an animal is tossed into a bonfire as an offering to the Virgen del Rosario.

 

Iglesia Parroquial de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación was rebuilt in the 20th century. The former church was erected in the 17th century and was in dire need of repairs. Neobaroque and neomudejar styles combine in this impressive church.

 

Ermita de la Virgen de las Angustias originally sat near the Fuente Agria according to documents. Unfortunately, this church fell to ruins. In the 1970s, its replacement was erected in the same location. The builder tried to keep the church simple as the original would have been.

 

Pórtugos has little to offer in the way of jobs. Those that do work in the town are either craftsmen/artisans or potato farmers. Unemployment is high in Pórtugos; close to 34% of the population was unemployed a few years ago. Many have to go to other towns for work.

Pigs are easy to raise. Portugueros take the freshly butchered pork legs and salt cure them in the fresh mountain air. The resulting product, Jam or Jambon, is similar to prosciutto, though many say the product rates far superior in taste to its Italian cousin.

 

Food in Pórtugos is similar to the cuisine in the Alpujarra region. The culinary style blends Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisines. Focus on pork and the fresh vegetable crops are the key component to the area specialties.

 

Meals are traditionally cooked in clay pots and then slow cooked until very moist and tender. Stews, roasts, and soups are commonly served in Pórtugos residences.

 

A total of one hotel and one restaurant can be found in Pórtugos. There are a couple of neighbourhood bars, but no true nightlife in the area. If you need more to keep you busy when the sun sets, you will need to head to larger cities and towns for your entertainment.

Pórtugos is a small town with a population of no more than 400 people. In essence, the town’s whitewashed appearance and winding streets are the main draw. It is essential to stroll through the town and experience the alleys and paths that cross underneath houses. The food is excellent, but many towns in the Alpujarra region serve the same style of cuisine. What makes Pórtugos stand out are the impressive views and scenery.

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